Thankfully, Edith Mayes was fascinated enough with Amherst to have compiled his papers in a book: Amherst Papers, 1756-1763, The Southern Sector: Dispatches from South Carolina, Virginia and His Majesty's Superintendent of Indian Affairs. Published by Heritage Books in 1999, this work is a great resource for anyone interested in the material and political culture of the SE. Contained within this work is a large section describing what goods were to be presented to each Indian warriror before, during and after joining the British forces in Pennsylvania. It gets better; the passages describe what the different textiles are typically used for!
At first fitting them out to War
Guns: One to each Man that wants it, or, to him that does not;
Either 6 Yards of Callicoe for a Jacket & Petticoat
8 yards of ¾ Garlix for two Shifts for his Wife;
Which will interest the Women in the expedition & will prevent the buying & Selling spare guns for a trifle; being commonly Spent in Rum....
...Blankets; one to each Man that wants it;
Or 4 Yards striped flannel for a Squaw’s Petticoat to him that does not...
In addition to made shirts, yards of materials (and thread further in the list) were commonly being provided for the Indians to use in the construction of garments by their own hand. Other sources tell us that Indians in the North and South were commonly making their own shirts, of varying qualities.
So what did these Indian-made shirts look like? Well, it is my belief that the following images tell us:
So that brings me to this guy depicted on Oconostota's 1761 French Commission (US National Archives):
Through examining hi-resolution images of the Cherokee Commission piece, details do present themselves, which are not appearant in the grainy reproductions (like above) that most of us are familiar with. The shirt appears to have an unfinished neck like like the Stockbridge and Shawnee fellows above. The neck line is very similar to the Stockbridge in particular. The sleeves are lacking gathers or pleates and the ends are also unfinished. Mind you, not "fringed" , but just raw. It is also particularly short, like the Shirt worn by the Shawnee warrior.
While many contend that this is the rare example of an Indian warrior wearing a women's shift, I believe it is actually another visual depiction of an Indian-made shirt. A couple of years ago, I made an interpretive piece based on this out of white linen. It is pretty filthy now, but I believe it accurately mimics the details above and proves my theory correct. Of course we will never know for certain, and some will maintain it is a women's garment... That's the beauty (frustration?) of interpreting artifacts and documents.